I can easily classify this year’s novelties into three categories: the ones I like, the ones I love, and the pieces I would definitely want to acquire! But kidding aside, it was obvious that the creative spirit was very much centred on three things this year: technical and material innovation, dial artistry and China.
Ode to the Dragon
Yes. It seems a lot of our friends from Le Chaux-de-Fonds and Le Locle are looking East for design inspiration. And by that I don’t mean stereotypical Oriental themes. This year, many of the brands exercised restraint in their dials and cases, keeping them simple, streamlined, and made from precious metals, the most popular of which was rose gold. Thin is still very in, as manufactures, including Cartier, Parmigiani and Richard Mille, released models that were fitted with the leanest of movements, all the better to match those sexy, slender wrists.
And while a lot of watch writers are expressing disappointment about watchmakers being too ‘safe’ this year, I think the mere fact that the Swiss watch industry places so much importance in what Asians – and particularly China – have to say, is good news. It’s time those voices are heard! What’s wrong about having a classic and refined taste in watches, anyway? You’ll see I’m right with this rundown of the pieces that I think will be bestsellers in the region this year.
While many of us know Parmigiani Fleurier for its one-of-a-kind Bugatti watches, tourbillons and collaborations with yacht maker Pershing, the brand presents a very pure model this year, in the case of the Tonda 1950. Fitted with the automatic calibre PF700, incidentally the brand’s twelfth in-house movement, the watch features a simple small second display at six o’clock, and that’s it. But under that very readable dial is an ultra-thin, automatic movement that is just 2.6mm thick, with an off-centre micro-rotor in 950 platinum, and offering a power reserve of 42 hours. The 39mm case is available in rose gold with a grained white dial, and white gold in a graphite dial.
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