Walking in Memphis

BACK TO BEALE

Beale Street runs approximately 2 miles, from the Mississippi river into downtown Memphis and has been famous for it’s music, bars and restaurants since the late 1800’s. Originally called Beale Avenue after a long-forgotten war hero, it was renamed after the success of W.C. Handy’s 1916 classic “Beale Street Blues”, and became a magnet for aspiring jazz and blues musicians. Like downtowns all over the world, the area has had it’s ups and downs, with the 60’s in particular seeing many businesses close. Thankfully, the area is now fantastically vibrant, and, crucially, safe and tourist-friendly. It is amazing to discover that Congress may occasionally shut down the US Government over budget issues, but found enough common ground to pass an Act in 1977 officially declaring Beale Street to be “The Home of the Blues” (#GetYourPrioritiesRight).

One man drawn to the bright lights of Beale in the late 40’s was one Riley B. King. As his fame grew he was nicknamed the “Beale Street Blues Boy”, shorted to “Blues Boy” and then to “B.B.”. As one might expect, one of the most popular venues on the street is the huge B.B. King Blues Club, on the corner of Beale and 2nd Avenue. This crossing is also the gathering point for motorcycle aficionados each Wednesday evening, known as Bike Night. Far from being an edgy gathering of hulking Hells Angels, this is actually a good natured, if noisy procession of stunningly fitted out bikes cruising slowly and trying to outdo one another in the “pimp my ride” stakes..

ITTA BENA

Offering without doubt the best dining experience on the street (and perhaps the city) is Itta Bena, upstairs from the B.B. King Blues Club. This beautifully decorated fine dining establishment offers what they describe as “contemporary Southern cuisine with a Delta twist”. The result is outstanding food and wines served in a luxurious, but relaxed environment. Their take on fried green tomatoes and Portobello fries has to be experienced and the bbq shrimp is simply delicious. With live performers that don’t overpower the conversation, this is a delight. Perfect location, great atmosphere, superb food and wine – it has it all. A brief post-prandial stroll soaking up the sights and sounds of Beale was the perfect end to an extraordinary day that had started some 18 hours before.