A Classic Grows Up

HK Golfer watch editor Ariel Adams on the  Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Perpetual Calendar, one of the horological highlights of 2010

In this writer's opinion the large watch revolution of the last few years permanently changed the desired size of timepieces for men. Due to simple physical differences in each man, there is no specific “perfect width” for a wrist watch, but a broad appearance on the wrist is certainly preferred. This applies even to classic-style timepieces that have traditionally been considered most desirable when produced in petite sizes.

A perfect example of this is the perpetual calendar. Devising a mechanical structure to indicate not only the time, but also a series of complex calendar features including allowances for leap years and the phase of the moon, have been celebrated when engineered to operate in small spaces. Modern interpretations of this prized set of complications focus less on the narrowness of the case, but the flatness of the movement itself.

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